
Start at the
#1 possible solution. I that does not
correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3, etc.
Start at the
#1 possible solution. I that does
not correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3, etc.
If you have any
questions at any time you can email me
#1 I know this
sounds stupid, but make sure the water is on, open main valve ( if your system is connected to a well,
pump or booster pump, this will not apply to this page
go here
#2 Most systems
now require a Backflow device such as the pressure backflow valve (pvb) if
you have one it should
be located above ground on the property. These valves usually have two blue handle ball
valves, check to see if open
#3 Check controller, ( you will need a multi-meter
for the next few steps, they can be purchased at hardware stores for
around $15, make sure it will read voltage and ohms
STOP! IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO USE THESE METERS
STOP HERE AND CALL A SERVICE TECHNICIAN,
YOU
CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD!
#4 Check the
voltage from the main supply to the transformer, most transformers require 110 vac. If there is no voltage,
bad outlet, connection or breaker blown. If there is correct voltage goto #5
#5 Check the
voltage from the power transformer to the controller, most controllers require
24 vac. No voltage, replace
transformer. If
there is voltage goto #6
#6 If your
system has an electric master valve goto #9.
If not goto #7. (How do I know
if I have a master valve?
Find the master valve terminal, usually labeled m/v,
or pump, or p, m, if there is a wire
connected here you have
A master valve, if not no master valve.
#7 Manually
run the number one station or zone, check
for voltage, place the red lead of
the multi meter on the number
one valve terminal
and place the black lead on the common terminal (usually labled “c”). The
correct voltage should be
around 24 vac. If
you get 24 vac goto # 13, if not goto #8
#8 Make sure
there are no rain or freeze sensors activated, check controller fuse. If fuse is good and rain or freeze
sensors are not activated, unplug controller, remove battery, wait 5 minuts, replace battery,
plug in controller. Still
have a problem -
Replace or repair controller
#9 Start the
number one station, check for voltage, place the red lead of the multi-meter
on the master valve
terminal, and the black lead on the common terminal.
If there is no voltage goto #8, if correct voltage goto #10
(At this point we have eliminated the water supply,
all main line valves being closed, no 110 vac supply, bad transformer,
bad controller, blown fuse, and rain or freeze sensors
from being the problem. Next we will check the master valve and the
field wiring to the master valve, as this is the only
solution left.)
#10 You will
need a multi-meter that’s reads ohms for this step. Most meters have asetting labeled “X10” set here.
(MAKE SURE THE CONTROLLER IS OFF AND UNPLUGGED TO AVOID
DAMAGE TO THE METER)
Zero out meter, Place the red lead on the master valve
terminal, and the black lead on the common terminal
If the reading is between 20 ohms – 90 ohms goto #12,
if the reading is below 20 ohms replace the selonoid on the
Master valve, if
the reading is above 90 ohms goto #11
#11 Check the
wire connections at the master valve, if the reading are still above 90 ohms,
there is a bad splice, or broken
field wire to the master valve. (TIP: run a new wire above ground from the controller
to the valve in question, first check
the station wire, then the common wire,
this will tell you which wire is bad.)
If you do not have a line fault locator, just replace
the bad wire, or call a service technician they can usually locate
The break for under $100. If it is not too long of a run of wire most times it is more cost
effective to replace the wire.
#12 IF the
master valve has a flow control knob make sure it is open (usually turning
counter-clockwise). If flow control
is open replace or repair master valve. Valve Repair
#13 check the
voltage to the remaining stations, if there is correct voltage to all stations,
there is a bad splice or connection
or break in the common wire, call a technician to locate the break, or replace
the wire.