Free Web Hosting Provider - Web Hosting - E-commerce - High Speed Internet - Free Web Page
Search the Web

 

other irrigation links: sprinklersupply.4t.com | irrigationjobline.4t.com
----SprinklerDoc- The Online Sprinkler System Repair Guide----
--Buy Professional Grade Sprinkler System Parts At SprinklerSupply--

ALL ZONES NOT WORKING

 

Start at the #1 possible solution.  I that does not correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3,  etc.

 

ALL ZONES NOT WORKING

 

Start at the #1 possible solution.  I that does not correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3,  etc.

 

If you have any questions at any time you can email me

 

 

#1  I know this sounds stupid, but make sure the water is on,  open main valve ( if your system is connected to a well,

pump or booster pump, this will not apply to this page go here

 

#2  Most systems now require a Backflow device such as the pressure backflow valve (pvb) if you have one it should

be located above ground on the property.  These valves usually have two blue handle ball valves, check to see if open

 

#3 Check controller, ( you will need a multi-meter for the next few steps, they can be purchased at hardware stores for

around $15, make sure it will read voltage and ohms

 

STOP!  IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO USE THESE METERS STOP HERE AND CALL A SERVICE TECHNICIAN,

YOU CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD!

                                                                                                                   

#4  Check the voltage from the main supply to the transformer,  most transformers require 110 vac. If there is no voltage,

bad outlet, connection or breaker blown.  If there is correct voltage goto #5

 

#5  Check the voltage from the power transformer to the controller, most controllers require 24 vac.  No voltage, replace

transformer.  If there is voltage goto #6

 

#6  If your system has an electric master valve goto #9.  If not goto #7.  (How do I know if I have a master valve? 

Find the master valve terminal, usually labeled m/v, or pump, or p, m,  if there is a wire connected here you have

A master valve, if not no master valve.

 

#7  Manually run the number one station or zone,  check for voltage,  place the red lead of the multi meter on the number

 one valve terminal and place the black lead on the common terminal (usually labled “c”). The correct voltage should be

around 24 vac. If  you get 24 vac goto # 13, if not goto #8

 

#8  Make sure there are no rain or freeze sensors activated, check controller fuse.  If fuse is good and rain or freeze

sensors are not activated,  unplug controller, remove battery, wait 5 minuts, replace battery, plug in controller.  Still

have a problem   - Replace or repair controller

 

#9  Start the number one station, check for voltage, place the red lead of the multi-meter on the master valve

terminal, and the black lead on the common terminal.  If there is no voltage goto #8, if correct voltage goto #10

 

(At this point we have eliminated the water supply, all main line valves being closed, no 110 vac supply, bad transformer,

bad controller, blown fuse, and rain or freeze sensors from being the problem. Next we will check the master valve and the

field wiring to the master valve, as this is the only solution left.)

 

#10  You will need a multi-meter that’s reads ohms for this step.  Most meters have asetting labeled “X10” set here.

(MAKE SURE THE CONTROLLER IS OFF AND UNPLUGGED TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE METER)

Zero out meter, Place the red lead on the master valve terminal, and the black lead on the common terminal

If the reading is between 20 ohms – 90 ohms goto #12,  if the reading is below 20 ohms replace the selonoid on the

Master valve,  if the reading is above 90 ohms goto #11

 

#11  Check the wire connections at the master valve, if the reading are still above 90 ohms, there is a bad splice, or broken

field wire to the master valve.   (TIP:  run a new wire above ground from the controller to the valve in question, first check

the station wire, then the common wire, this will tell you which wire is bad.)

If you do not have a line fault locator, just replace the bad wire, or call a service technician they can usually locate

The break for under $100.  If it is not too long of a run of wire most times it is more cost effective to replace the wire.

 

#12  IF the master valve has a flow control knob make sure it is open (usually turning counter-clockwise).  If flow control

is open replace or repair master valve.    Valve Repair

 

#13  check the voltage to the remaining stations, if there is correct voltage to all stations,  there is a bad splice or connection

or break in the common wire,  call a technician to locate the break, or replace the wire.

 

  TOP

 RETURN TO HOME