
Start at the
#1 possible solution. I that does not
correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3, etc.
ONE ZONE OR SOME ZONES WORKING AND ONE OR SOME ZONES NOT WORKING
If you have any questions you can email me
Start at the #1 solution then #2, then #3 etc.
#1 Run each zone manually, list zones than are not working
#2 Start at controller, ( you will need a multi-meter for the next few steps, they can be purchased at hardware stores for
around $15, make sure it will read voltage and ohms)
STOP! IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO USE THESE METERS STOP HERE AND CALL A SERVICE TECHNICIAN,
YOU CAN DO MORE HARM THAN GOOD!
#3 Check the voltage to to the zones not working, place the red lead of the multi meter on the valve terminal and place
the black lead on the common terminal (usually labled “c”). The correct voltage should be around
24 vac. If you get 24 vac goto # 4, if not repair or replace controller.
#4 Using the multi-meter set to “x10” ohms (MAKE SURE THAT THE CONTROLLER IS UNPLUGGED AND
TURNED OFF TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE METER) Place the red lead on the station number not working, place
The black lead on the common terminal. If the reading is less than 20 ohms replace the selonoid on the valve.
If the reading is between 20 ohms to 90 ohms, goto #6. If the reading is over 90 ohms goto # 5.
#5 Check the wire connections at the valve in question, if the readings are still above 90 ohms, there is a bad splice, or broken
field wire to the valve. (TIP: run a new wire above ground from the controller to the valve in question, first check
the station wire, then the common wire, this will tell you which wire is bad.)
If you do not have a line fault locator, just replace the bad wire, or call a service technician they can usuallylocate
The break for under $100. If it is not too long of a run of wire most times it is more cost effective to replace the wire.
#6 If the valve has a flow control knob make sure it is open (usually turning counter-clockwise). If flow control
is open replace or repair valve. Valve Repair