
Start at the
#1 possible solution. I that does not
correct the problem then goto step #2, then #3, etc.
When an electric irrigation valve is not functioning properly there are two basic options,
repair or replace. Which option you choose will depend on many factors, type of valve, age of valve
how long the system will be down, how difficult is the replacement from original piping. Cost should
really is not a factor on small plastic valves ( 1” or less) as the cost of a new diaphragm and solenoid
almost equals that of a complete valve. You may want to consider repairing larger and brass valves
as this option on these types of valves is more cost effective.
First we will assume you have already determined that the problem is definitely the valve itself and
not flow control, bad connections, field wiring, controller, or mainline valves. If you are unsure
go here for diagnosis.
When repairing a valve (under 1”) the best advice is to buy a complete valve of the same model and replace the
top half of the valve. Repairing a valve starts with removing the top half of the valve. There are usually
4 to 10 screws that need to be removed from the top, allowing the valve to be split in half. Remove the
top half of the valve. The top half of the valve will consist of the solenoid, diaphragm ( rubber ), possibly
a small spring and the top body of the valve. Inspect the lower half of the valve for debris, rocks, etc.
Also check the area where the diaphragm seats, make sure there is not excessive wear of jagged areas.
Disassemble the new valve the same as the old one. Replace the top half of the new valve onto the
old valve in the hole. Tighten screws down just as you would if you were changing a tire on your car,
do not tighten one side first. Tighten until the new top half is fully seated, reconnect the wiring, use
gel wire splices to waterproof, turn on valve.
To replace only the bad part on a valve, each part must be carefully inspected, and you must know
what to look for.
Diaphragm- check for holes, tears,wear on the bottom where the valve seats, wear through the
center hole if it has flow control, wear on the outside edges.
Solenoid- check the ohms on the solenoid (reading of 20 ohms – 90 ohms is good) under 20 ohms replace.
Make sure the plunger in the center can move freely inside the solenoid. Replace if any exterior corrosion
or burned areas are noticed.
Valve body- clean all ports, check for cracks or wear